desktop_windowsBest experienced on desktop
Contents
START HERE · 2 OF 3

The zeroing process, from bore sight to confirmed zero

Zeroing is adjusting your optic until point of aim and point of impact agree at a distance you chose. The procedure is short; most wasted ammo comes from skipping its order.

3 MIN READUPDATED AUG 2026

A rifle is zeroed when where you aim is where you hit — at one distance, with one load. Everything nearer or farther follows a known curve from that reference point, which is why the zero is worth doing carefully and confirming on paper.

Before you shoot

A zero can only be as repeatable as the hardware under it. Before burning ammunition, verify the mount:

  • All screws torqued to the manufacturer’s spec — not “snug,” the spec.

  • The optic is level relative to the rifle.

  • Eye relief is set for your actual shooting position.

  • Rings clear the turret housing and objective bell.

Then bore sight to get on paper without spending a round: a laser bore sighter in the chamber or muzzle, or — on a bolt gun — pull the bolt, centre a target through the bore, and adjust the reticle onto the same point.

Choosing a zero distance

There is no universal best — the right distance depends on what the rifle is for:

ZEROBEST FORNOTES
25 ydAR-15, short indoor lanesPairs with a ~300 yd far zero for 5.56
36 ydAR-15 “improved” zero~300 yd far zero, flatter mid-range
50 ydGeneral purpose, hunting~200 yd far zero, good compromise
100 ydBolt rifles, precisionThe standard known-distance reference
200 ydLong-range huntingMinimises holdover to 300+
Short-distance zeroes work because of the double zero — the near crossing stands in for the far one.
  1. 1

    Set up stable: bench, rest or bags, same cheek weld every shot, consistent ammunition — same lot if you have it.

  2. 2

    Fire a 3–5 shot group at one aim point. Do not touch the turrets mid-group.

  3. 3

    Find the group’s centre and measure its offset from point of aim, vertical and horizontal.

  4. 4

    Dial the correction — move the reticle toward where the bullets hit. Hitting low-left means dialing up and right. Most scopes move 1/4 MOA per click: about 1/4″ at 100 yards.

  5. 5

    Fire another group to confirm. Fine-tune if needed, then shoot one final confirmation group and leave the turrets alone.

Diagram showing how to measure a shot group offset and convert it to scope adjustments
“Follow the bullet” — dial the adjustment toward where the group printed, and it drags point of impact to point of aim.

Mistakes that cost a box of ammo

  • Adjusting after every shot. Single shots scatter; groups tell the truth. Shoot the group first.

  • Chasing flyers. One obviously wild shot is you, not the zero. Read the cluster.

  • Zeroing a hot barrel. Heat walks the point of impact. Let it cool between groups.

  • Loose mounts. A zero that “wanders” is usually hardware. Check torque first.

  • Dialing the wrong way. Turret arrows describe point-of-impact movement. Low hits mean dial UP.

  • Never re-confirming. New ammunition, a remount, a hard knock — each one is a reason to verify.

Start with the right sheet

The generator builds a zeroing target for your exact load, height over bore and paper distance — including offset aim points for short lanes.

Open target generator
NEXT IN START HERE · 3 OF 3

Understanding double zeroes

The bullet crosses your line of sight twice, which is why a 36 yard zero is also a 300 yard zero — and why the near crossing is the one you confirm on paper.

NEXT · 3 OF 3Understanding double zeroes